Our Trip to Japan July 2024

After a smooth flight and train journey, we arrived in Kyoto around midday yesterday and found Mai waiting for us at the Shinkansen exit. Our check-in at the Granvia was not available until around 2:30, so we had lunch and a walk around, mostly in air-conditioning as it was very hot outside

We had a huge chicken yakitori lunch, with miso soup and rice and were so full. Mai had a small fan and I thought I needed one so we went to a department store. After a train ride, we walked off lunch at Tenryuji Temple in Arashiyama, built in 1339, one of the finest examples of traditional Japanese garden design. We had planned on going to see the bamboo forest but the heavens opened and we were soaked through. We caught a taxi to a little pizza and pasta restaurant called Mama and enjoyed a pasta. We then returned to the hotel by taxi and Mai came up to get her “goodies” before taking the train to her house. We read for a little while before having a good night’s sleep.

We had a very quiet morning with Neville working on trying to make the computer work, before meeting Mai, Nanako and Kazuyo who smiled and laughed a lot. Nanako gave us a towel each which was very useful in the heat and humidity. We were taken by train to an amazing sashimi and tempura restaurant called Izakaya in the town of Uji, where we literally gorged ourselves on the best sashimi and tempura we have ever had. Mai had put in the order ahead of time and when it came out, our sashimi platters were twice the size of the others. Kazuyo had organised for a guided tour of Byodoin Temple which dates back one thousand years and features the phoenix which we later discovered on the 10,000 yen bank note.

We returned to Kyoto by train and the girls came up to our room for a chat and Neville worked on the computer again trying to get the Dropbox working so we could share photos with Mai. They left to take the train to Mai’s place and we went for a stroll through the basement supermarket of Isetan department store. The timing was really good being the end of the day and we bought discounted sushi packs and took them back to the room. As it was International Chocolate Day, we had to buy some chocolate at the 7-11 and had an early night.

This morning, after breakfast and packing, we were greeted by Kazuyo and Nanako who had insisted on meeting us in the lobby and taking us to the train. Mai had to work so was very disappointed that she couldn’t be there too. We were presented with gifts – a beautiful book with photos and drawings that they had worked on the night before, which must have taken many hours; some coffee beans for Neville; a fridge magnet of Mt Fuji and an insulated bag. We boarded the shinkansen and relaxed for the two hours to Shin Yokohama before transferring to a local train to Sakuragicho, and then a taxi to our hotel. We were very fortunate in that our room was just finishing being cleaned so could check in early. After a couple of hours in the room, working on the computer, we went down to the lobby to meet up with Hiro and Yasuko and spent an hour over afternoon tea with them. Of course, there was a gift of a couple of towels for us. It was wonderful to catch up with them as the last time we saw them was at Darryl and Kaoru’s wedding, ten years ago.

Next we went shopping in the mall and picked up fruit and OJ for breakfast as well as some snacks and drinks for the evening – beer and saki for Neville and Vodka and lemon for Jenni.

Next we walked into a wonderful sushi bar, where 2 chefs prepare sushi and pass it to you over the bar. It was just the way we remember similar experiences of many years ago. We may go back there again tomorrow night!

Back in our room we enjoyed our drinks and then called it a night. The heat here certainly saps your strength.

This morning, after our cheapie breakfast, we took the train from Sakuragicho (a short walk away) to Tokyo, then caught a taxi to Nihonbashi Mitsukoshi, where we met up with our very dear old friend, Ken Hishiya, who is now 92. We had a very early lunch at a nearby restaurant and had so much to talk about.

After accompanying Ken to the station to catch his train home, we tried to go to a place called Teamlabs Borderless that we had heard about, only to find it was booked out for the day so we returned to Yokohama. Walking back to the hotel, we noticed a 273 meter high skywalk at the Landmark tower and decided to give it a go. 69 stories high and boasting Japan’s fastest elevator, it was impressive and the 360 views from the top were stunning.

Now we are back in our room and I am doing this blog while Jenni is having a nanna nap. Yep, you guessed it – back we went for another great sushi pigout!

After a slow morning, we checked out of the hotel at 10:50am and were in our cabin by 11:15am. It was a 10 min cab ride to the ship where we were greeted by Princess staff and virtually ushered thru the priority lane and on to the ship. Any expectations we had to that point were well and truly exceeded. Unfortunately, but not unreasonably, our suitcases took a lot longer, about 2 hours.

We quickly settled in over a couple of cocktails.

As you can see, this pool is at the back of the ship and is not used by kids who prefer the larger pools mid ship so this will be our go to spot.

How is this for a balcony?

After dinner, we went to the show in the Princess theatre. We saw and marveled at the skills of “the Amazing Tibor” who combined juggling, magic and comedy into a first-rate performance.

This morning,  I went to the gym while Jenni enjoyed a sleep in. After breakfast we went to a shore presentation regarding our upcoming visits to Kushiro and Hakadote. Then we had a lazy day, although somewhat frustrating for me as I decided to do a remote update of the footy club scoreboard and encountered technical difficulties.  So a 15 – 30 min job took most of the day and I needed Darryl’s help. Pity he has to work. Anyway, I got it done and then started to have problems with this blog and have had to rewrite and reload photos several times.

A little knowledge is such a dangerous thing!

This evening was a formal night so we dressed in our finest and feasted at Sabatini’s, one of the specialty restaurants.

Afterwards we went to the show at the Princess theatre and witnessed a spectacular performance from the Princess orchestra, singers and dancers.

It was as good as any cruise show we have seen and set a new standard in our opinion.

This morning we arrived in Kushiro port and joined a guided tour from the ship.

The tour bus took us through protected marshlands, home of various unique flora and fauna especially the red headed crane.

A walk through the crane sanctuary was interesting and we were able to get close to several of the large birds.

Next we visited the fish market where we had the freshest sashimi for lunch. We had one of each of several varieties which were all delicious. Could easily have gone back for seconds.

The fog cleared to a beautiful sunny day of about 23 degrees.

The museum has a lot of information and artifacts about the Ainu people who originally inhabited Hokkaido and had their own culture. There is evidence that Hokkaido was once connected to America (but not the rest of Japan) as some of the fossils are only found in those 2 countries. 1 fossil of a jaw dates back 38 million years – incomprehensible.

It was also connected to Russia because centuries ago Russians found their way to Hokkaido and assimilated with the Ainu people and adopted the local customs.

Today started out foggy but cleared to a mostly clear sunny day and temp of about 25 – 26 deg. We set out to explore the way the locals do – on foot and by tram. A day pass on the tram was only 600 Yen and there was a station within 250 metres of the ship.

What an experience! The tram was an old rattler and was packed with passengers. We managed to squeeze on and travelled just 3 stops which took about 15 mins as each stop had a considerable delay with people trying to get off. The only exit was at the front and so deboarding passengers had to force their way through everyone ahead of them and then tap off or pay the driver. The tram tracks were in a dubious state of repair and the tram rocked perilously from side to side as it powered along.

Then we had a walk of about 500 metres up a steep hill to the cable car station which took us to the top of Mt Hakodate where the views were spectacular.

After returning in the cable car, we walked about 700 metres to the historic old red brick warehouse area where our main interest was the fresh seafood. It wasn’t as interesting as Kushiro because the food you bought was already packaged but it was still great, nevertheless. We knew that the morning market (right where the ship docked) was the best place but we thought we would go there later – probably a mistake as it was closing by the time we returned.

Next we walked back to the tram and headed for Goryokaku which was 12 stops.
If we thought the first ride was hairy, it had nothing on this. Again we managed to squeeze on board but about 20 others behind us didn’t make it. It took forever to get the doors closed and then we had more of the same at virtually every stop – people trying to get off and others trying to get on.
Eventually we got there and the walked, again, about 750 metres to Goryokaku Tower which is 107 metres high and overlooks the very historic Goryokaku Park, the site of the Goryokaku Fort which dates back to 1853 and has a fascinating history.
Up we went and , again, the views were spectacular.

Of course, we then had to retrace our steps and yet another tram ride back to the ship. By this time Jen was exhausted. We boarded the ship and all she wanted to do was lie down and sleep. I tried to talk her into going for a massage or a spa but no way.
I had a swim and sat out in the glorious sunshine sipping on a cocktail and keeping track of the footy scores.
A great day for the Hawks and the Ammos!

Now we have set sail for Otaru.

We arrived at 7:30 this morning to a beautiful sunny day. I had a short workout in the gym.

Over breakfast Jen decided she could not manage another day of walking as she was still suffering the effects of yesterday. So she stayed on board, did a load of laundry then went to the Lotus Spa for a Swedish massage which she now highly recommends. She also did a bit of stretching in the gym and otherwise filled in the day.

I left her and headed into town which involved a lot more walking. I was hoping to find a fresh fish market but the only ones in the town were like we found yesterday, ie fresh fish but already packaged and premium priced. Our experience in Kushiro spoiled us for anything else so I gave it a miss. The town is very nice and, of course, clean and there were stores selling everything you could possibly wish for. There is an interesting historic canal trip that I wanted to do but it was fully booked.

After an hour or so walking around, I headed for the train station and caught a local train to Sapporo. I just missed the express so the train I had stopped at all 14 stations before arriving in Sapporo about 50 mins later.

Sapporo is a typical large city with department stores, high rise etc but features a beautiful park called Odori Park which is a street block wide and about 10 blocks long, so I proceeded to walk from one end to the other. It is quite beautiful and peaceful for the locals to enjoy and has great features for kids. It is right in the heart of the town and a huge attraction.

Occupying almost half of the park was section after section of brewery stands which were being set up for a Beerfest. I thought – beauty, I’ll be in this, only to find that it doesn’t start until next Friday. I reckon they had tables and seating for a few thousand people.

To compensate myself, I found an outdoor restaurant where I ordered a large Sapporo draught which was like nectar. The day temp was around 30 deg so I needed it.

For the return journey, I was lucky enough to catch the Rapid Express which only stopped at 6 stations and got me back a lot quicker. Back on board, I had a spa and brief swim then we sat out the back for a while and enjoyed the relaxation.

The next 2 days are sea days and we are quite looking forward to the slower pace.

Last night’s show was extraordinary featuring a Japanese Australian rock violinist by the name of Takei and boy could he perform! He is fluent in both languages, his mastery of the violin was brilliant but he was also very entertaining with his interaction with the audience. Fascinating history – his father was Chinese from South Korea, mother Taiwanese, he was born in Japan and lived there through his early years before emigrating to Australia. After years of busking, he now spends most of his life entertaining on cruise ships – 45 to 50 per year! His show last night featured music from Coldplay, Sting and Queen to name a few.

It’s a lazy, hazy day today with a mist over the ocean and no wind to blow it away. The seas have been very calm the entire trip so far and we are barely aware that we are moving. It is 1:30pm and the sun is just starting to burn its way thru’ the cloud so I expect it will get hot this arvo as we proceed south toward Jeju Island, our next destination.

For lunch today, we tried the set menu in the Japanese restaurant, Kai Sushi. We had sashimi and tempura, topped off with a bottle of delightful Sake. All of this is included in our package for 2 lunches or dinners, so we will go again in the days to come.

We walked around the deck this morning and were fortunate to see a pod of large fish (I think they were tuna) leaping out of the water playing some sort of game. They looked to be at least a metre in length. It only lasted about 10 seconds so we were very lucky.

Tonight was the second formal night so we got dressed up and went to the Captain’s party, then on to dinner

Then it was off to the show, we thought, only to find the theatre was full, so we settled for a movie back in our room. So ended our lazy day.

It is another foggy day and there has been some rain. The temp is increasing as we continue south toward Jeju Island. It is also getting very humid.

It was a bit confusing when I checked the time this morning – the cellphones have automatically changed to Taiwan/China/Korea time, but the ship’s clock has remained on Japan time.

This morning we arrived at Jeju Island which is volcanic and, as such, covered in rocks of all shapes and sizes. These rocks are used to build walls, buildings, you name it.
The day was very hot and humid so we were glad to have an air-conditioned bus to take us around. The island is quite large, similar size to Oahu, Hawaii.
We first drove to the center of the island (about 1 hour) to the UNESCO heritage listed site of a large extinct volcano which was formed from a gaseous eruption, ie no rocks or lava, hence the top of the volcano was basically at normal ground level and the 140 metre deep crater was able to be easily viewed. It has a diameter of around 650 metres and is completely covered with native foliage.
Access to the crater itself is not permitted so the foliage is able to grow unchecked.

Our second destination was a folk village where the houses are the same as they have been for centuries and about 100 families live there in fairly rudimentary conditions.

The thatched roofs have to be tied down securely as they have very high winds to contend with and they have to be fully replaced every 2 years.

Below is an example of recycling!

Our final stop was the market which was just like any other. We tasted some bbq pork which was delicious.

And so ended our day on Jeju Island.

This morning, Neville went to the gym while I slept in (how unusual!). After breakfast Neville wasn’t feeling very well – shivering and shaking – so laid in bed while I went to the cooking demonstration in the Theatre. As usual it was very entertaining. While they were cleaning up after the pasta cooking, one of the staff came out and sang for us. She had a fantastic voice – probably Filipino! The cooking of the desert course was just as entertaining as the first. The only downside was, of course, it took twice as long as our Japanese cruise director had to translate everything. There was then a tour of the galley which I didn’t do as I needed to get some laundry done. Luckily, I didn’t have to wait long for a machine. So, nearly two hours later, laundry all folded, we went up to lunch. Neville had taken Panadol after breakfast so was feeling a bit better. He is now laying on the couch watching a movie.

July 19th – Shimizu

We had a lazy morning as the ship continued to cruise, arriving at Shimizu at around 11:00am. Everyone had to go off the ship and clear customs and immigration at this port. Unlike the embarkation process, this was painfully slow but eventually we were able to leave the port. Unfortunately, the day was very hot with a strong wind that made walking very difficult to we were soon back on board.

The view from our balcony – you can just make out Fuji in the background below.

That evening, after packing, I didn’t feel like eating or doing anything, so we had a snack upstairs then Jen went to the final show in the Princess Theatre and we were in bed soon after, minus our suitcases.

July 20th Tokyo

We left the ship at around 8:45am and did a ship’s tour of Tokyo en route to the airport. Fortunately, the bus had good air-conditioning because it was even hotter than in Shimizu. We stopped at the Sensoji Temple at Asakusa and it was a struggle to walk around with most people opting to sit in the shade

We moved on to the next stop at the Meiji Shrine but again, it required a very long walk which nobody was willing to do. Instead, we walked through the Yoyogi park for about 20 minutes round trip, stopping at shops halfway round for a drink and shelter.